| Travel Guides & Tips |
| Laissez-Faire: Bern, Switzerland |
| by Vino Clement |
| This is the first installment in a series of features aimed at the laid-back traveler and based on the philosophy that checklists are for shopping trips, not vacations. Rather than the must-sees and must-dos, Laissez-Faire focuses on the R&R side of things – the quietest scenes, the chillest venues and the most relaxed destinations. This edition takes a look at the Swiss city of Bern, most subdued of all European capitals. |
In a country notorious for neutrality, it seems fitting that the Swiss capital city would offer little to offend the senses.
Graced with traditional streets, dramatic valleys and an alpine backdrop, Bern itself feels remarkably like a giant terrace, overlooking the ancient river that wanders through it. Perhaps inspired by this unusual urban layout, the locals brandish a laid-back demeanor known the world over.
Central to the Bernese attitude is the small-town feel that permeates its streets. The traditional architecture preserves the classic, compact city plan, which makes Bern a geographically small berg even by Swiss standards. With little more than a razor scooter it’s entirely possible to cover the whole of the city in a single day. No need to wrangle for cabs, no need to navigate a complicated metro system.
Yet, despite Bern’s many virtues, nobody ever made the mistake of calling her a cheap date. With one of the most expensive club scenes in Europe, a thorough romp through the Bernese nightlife can prove an expensive affair.
But then again, there are better places to party than Switzerland. Her appeal lies elsewhere.
Finding Chomp: The Summer Markets – Parliament Square
It’s not hard finding decent eats in Bern, but rather incredibly difficult to keep it down after the check arrives.
Even more so than in Basel, Genève or Zürich, visitors will find entrée prices incredibly inflated within the central corridor of the city. Fortunately, one option remains open to those looking to take a proactive approach (blasphemy, I know, but well worth it).
Every Tuesday and Saturday during the summer months (May-October), the vast streets surrounding Parliament Square teem with farmers from every corner of the Swiss Alps. While most Bernese speak impeccable English, the markets remain one of the few places where a knowledge of French or German comes in handy, due to the large concentration of provincial merchants. All the same, it’s still easy enough to point your way to an incredibly cost-effective meal.
Ready-made food is available at the market as well but – when visiting during the summer – it’s highly recommended to book accommodations with a community kitchen. one may never work with meats and cheeses so fresh again.
Out and About: Marians Jazzroom – Engestrasse 54, 3012 Bern
As mentioned earlier, and worth bear repeating, venturing out after dusk has been known to singe the wallet as the most renowned of Bern’s nightlife institutions typically demand quite a hefty price. Yet, sadly, few offer anything truly unique.
Perhaps the most notable exception is Marians Jazzroom, a small club off the beaten track that frequently attracts some of the biggest stars in jazz and blues. Boasting of a premium martini bar and sporting a noteworthy docket of international talent, the Jazzroom’s intimate environment make this venue one of the finest of its kind anywhere in Europe. While lingering in the plush surroundings, visitors can break from Bern’s disco-laden downtown and enjoy an authentic jazz experience.
On Saturdays, after midnight, the “Late Night Groove” begins, as the entertainment shifts more toward a funk and R&B flavor. Soul and gospel acts can also, occasionally, be found at the club and attract a unique audience all their own. Of course, with so much to offer and a maximum capacity of just 120, table reservations are unofficially mandatory.
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